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Buck Stove Repairs

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Printable .pdf Version of Repair Instructions

Older Model Buck Stove Insert

Overview

 

To make it easier for you to do your own repairs, we have decided to put some instructions together. Each fireplace is somewhat different but most of these instruction should apply.
If you have a free standing stove of course you can skip a lot of these instructions on how to get the stove out and back in your fireplace.

Troubleshooting

 

If the blower is not coming on when you build a fire, check to see if it is plugged in. Check the outlet with a lamp, then flip the switch on the lower right hand side of the stove to the opposite position (manual). If it comes on and the fire is hot, you need to replace the thermostat.

If the blower still doesn't come on you need to replace the motor, and maybe the thermostat. (see below).

If the blower runs for a while and then cuts off you should flip the switch to manual and see if it continues to cycle off and on. If it does then the motor has bad bushings and is being cut off by the internal thermal protector. The motor will need to be replaced. If it runs continuously on manual, then the thermostat is bad and should be replaced.

If the fire is burning out of control with the doors closed, the damper out and the slide drafts closed, then you probably need to replace your door gasket, and possibly your glass gasket.

Pulling the Stove

 

These instructions apply to stoves installed in brick fireplaces with the trim panels pushed up tight to the fireplace front. If you have a different installation, like a recessed rock fireplace where the panels are cut to fit inside the fireplace call me from your home and we will walk you through the removal.

First you will need the following tools and supplies:

  • Claw hammer
  • Allen wrench (3/32")
  • Nut drivers (11/32"), (3/8"),(5/16")
  • Two peices of ceramic tile(scraps ok)
  • Utility knife or sharp pocket knife

Begin by unplugging the stove.

Insert the claw of the hammer under the hearth plate that protrudes from the bottom of the stove. When you pull back on the hammer handle the stove will lift up high enough to slide one of the ceramic tiles under the stove about 4 to 6 inches. Put the other piece of tile in the center of the hearth about 8 inches from the front of the fireplace. The purpose of the tiles are to make it easy to slide the stove, and protect your hearth from scratches.

Let the stove back down on the tile, stand on the hearth with legs on either side of the hearth plate. Grab the stove top at the corners and pull wiggle back and forth. When the weight of the stove gets on the ceramic tile it will slide right out so be careful not to pull it off the hearth if the hearth is raised.

You may either leave the trim panels on the stove and work sideways, or take them off and turn the stove completely around on the tile. I prefer the latter as it makes my back hurt to work sideways.

To remove the trim panels, slice the silicone with a razor knife or sharp pocket knife. Cut the fiberglass where the side and top panels meet. Leave the fiberglass on the panels. Remove the four tec screws holding the panels on and lay aside for later replacement (do not remove silicone from panels)

Replacing Motor

 

Now the rear of the stove is exposed, but before removing the motor housing take the aluminum wire cover off exposing the wire nuts. Remove the wire nuts from the wires and separate. The new motor is larger and will not allow the replacement of the aluminum wire cover so it can be discarded at this time. The screws that held it in place should be replaced back in the holes in the motor housing to prevent smoke from entering there.

Now you can remove the four 3/8" tec screws that hold the motor housing in place, if the gasket separates evenly it will go back together on reassembly if not they are available for replacement.

Once the 9 inch fan blade is exposed, remove it with an allen wrench and lay it aside being careful not to bend the aluminum blades.

This should expose the two 11/32" nuts that hold the motor in place, remove them and the motor. The rubber grommet around the motor shaft should be put on the new motor or a new one should be purchased. The grommet keeps smoke from entering the home around the shaft.

Put the new motor with rubber grommet on shaft into the housing with the wires down and snug up the two nuts from the front side. This should be done with the motor on its end with the shaft up so tht motor shaft is kept centered in the rubber grommet while the nuts are tighened onto the houshing. Replace the big fan blade and replace the motor housing on the back of the stove with the four bolts. Make sure that the gasket is air tight. Reconnect the motor wires to the thermostat and power cord wires per wiring diagram.

Turn the stove around and reinstall panels. Silicone on panels and stove should go back together leaving no gap. Push stove back into fireplace, lift up with claw hammer and remove tile. Plug stove back in. Flip the switch to make sure fan runs on manual.

Thermostat Replacement

 

If the stove was manufactured after 1979 the thermostat is located inside the right hand air intake.

Remove the air intake by removing the three 5/16" screws. Remove the old thermostat and replace with new one.

If the thermostat is located in the rear of the stove it will need to be removed and the new one installed as per the first diagram above. Use the same procedure as motor replacement. Take the old wiring harness out and replace with the new one. Use the same procedure to close and reinstall stove.

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